Wednesday, June 22, 2016

DIÁRIO DE VIAGEM - 27o dia

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 I realized today I've been back to dreaming in English, and thinking too it seems.
Today we added tree to our bunch and headed to Cabuya, Leo, our little Brooke Shields from Germany traveling Central America alone, Mike, a guy from her city she met a couple of weeks before, and Hayden, the tattooed Australian and his big SUV. We went over dry rivers and a small accident, a wry green forest and an open road of dirt leading to trails that lead to Cabuya.
Today I got into my first rock bottom break, thought was going to be worse but they were kindly smooth on the feet. All the boys were there and it looked easy enough from the outside. Well, I didn't really expect myself to go in but I did, I swam what showed to be easier than the beach break in Santa Teresa and I then found myself looking at them all there, easy faces, quiet, paddling slowly, seating back, watching the ocean pulsing, searching for the right time, the right wave.
I couldn't get any big waves, I almost dropped in on five but they all seemed they would close in and I could picture the rocks grinding at me on the bottom. I swam around for a while enjoying the moment, watching the boys in silent.
Right by the time I decided to leave a bit frustrated with my incompetence to paddle down the big ones, I finally realized I could get the middle set, a bit closer to the beach, a bit shallower but smaller waves, and even though I was already tired I made a point of going down two. I went down two waves on rock bottom.
It was a good day.